Poking around a Pan

Etosha is centred on a pan – a white, featureless, dry salt-bed that shimmers into distant horizons. The real beauty of this unique park lies in the ease of its wildlife viewing – sighting here are virtually guaranteed. Animals congregate around waterholes and it’s a case of putting your feet up and letting the wildlife come to you. I saw an intriguing collection of herd animals around the hole that I staked out, including the elegant gemsbok, wildebeest, springbok, and elephants. Also in the park are giraffe often seen as silhouettes travelling across the flat plains here in search of food. But Etosha’s biggest delight is the black rhino. One of Africa’s rarest mammals, I saw two at night at a waterhole close to an official camp. I was alone when I saw a large female emerge from the bush – she was joined a short time later by another and they had play fights around the water. It was one of my great wildlife highlights of Africa.

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